Unfortunately Dozuki only allows each clip to be 30 seconds long max so we had to do our best to break them up. If you click the enlarge button on the video viewer and pause as needed you should be able to see the correct orientation and I generally reference a position and point as well to help give indication
Adding more details now. Notating which brackets and linking to the preparation step. For Step 4 they’re the base corner brackets you prepped in step 5 of stage 1
Ok, did you look at the parts key documents in stage 1? They label everything pretty clearly in both assembled and unassembled state. Let us know specifically where you’re getting hung up and we’re happy to help.
In the latest packaging its rolled up and placed in a little plastic bag that sometimes gets caught inside the shipping tube. Also of note, there may be 5 small holes along the bottom edge of the vinyl but only the outer edge holes and the center holes are used in the latest design (v2.0) the two inner ones will be sandwiched between the exit panels and doesn’t impact sealing.
Look at the bottom corners of the back panel and you’ll see a tiny knock out. Punch the side out on the side you want the cord to exit and loosen the side panel enough to slip the plug through.
Sorry for the confusion. The later production kits had a modification to the seal bar so that only 16mm bolts are required. Not sure what you mean by them being too long. If they’re not overtightened the length should be just right.
Hey Ryan, Sorry I forgot which version you have. For the non-seal kit version the unfinished side of the rear faceplate should be facing into the box. The strike plate isn’t involved unless you have the seal kit. Are you saying the hole for the bolt isn’t lining up? Shoot me an email if need be and we can talk through your specifics. support@repkord.com
There is only one size of screw for the whole box. 16mm button heads
Glad you found it. Please email me so we can discuss, I’m sorry you’re upset. info@repkord.com
Unfortunately Dozuki only allows each clip to be 30 seconds long max so we had to do our best to break them up. If you click the enlarge button on the video viewer and pause as needed you should be able to see the correct orientation and I generally reference a position and point as well to help give indication
Adding more details now. Notating which brackets and linking to the preparation step. For Step 4 they’re the base corner brackets you prepped in step 5 of stage 1
Ok, did you look at the parts key documents in stage 1? They label everything pretty clearly in both assembled and unassembled state. Let us know specifically where you’re getting hung up and we’re happy to help.
In the latest packaging its rolled up and placed in a little plastic bag that sometimes gets caught inside the shipping tube. Also of note, there may be 5 small holes along the bottom edge of the vinyl but only the outer edge holes and the center holes are used in the latest design (v2.0) the two inner ones will be sandwiched between the exit panels and doesn’t impact sealing.
Sorry for the delay in getting the details up.
Look at the bottom corners of the back panel and you’ll see a tiny knock out. Punch the side out on the side you want the cord to exit and loosen the side panel enough to slip the plug through.
Sorry for the confusion. The later production kits had a modification to the seal bar so that only 16mm bolts are required. Not sure what you mean by them being too long. If they’re not overtightened the length should be just right.
Hey Ryan, Sorry I forgot which version you have. For the non-seal kit version the unfinished side of the rear faceplate should be facing into the box. The strike plate isn’t involved unless you have the seal kit. Are you saying the hole for the bolt isn’t lining up? Shoot me an email if need be and we can talk through your specifics. support@repkord.com
Most of them use only the two on the ends but the corner at the bottom rear of the box utilizes all three nut spaces.
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