Parts
No parts specified.
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In the pictured configuration we've set the top panel to have them face front. But the panel can rotate 180 degrees and is interchangeable with the base panel.
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Grab one of the top / base panels (Part 4) and start by filling all its exit holes with plugs. This is much easier to do when its laying on a flat surface so better to do it now. You can always add or remove them later to install exit fittings as needed.
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Flip your base panel over so the unfinished side is face up.
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Grab both outside track guides (Part 2) and line up on either end so the 3mm holes at the edges line up with the ones on the base panel.
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Affix the base corner brackets you prepped in Step 8 of Stage 1 Bracket Preparation as shown here. (link opens in new window)
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Grab a rectangular washer from the punch-out panel that has the roller sides in it (Part 7).
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Press and M3x16mm screw through this washer. It will go on whichever side of the base you have decided will be the front of your RepBox. This is slightly different from what is pictured in the video as it was a late version change.
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Affix the center base brackets you prepared in Step 10 of Stage 1 Bracket Preparation (link opens in new window) using the washered M3x16mm screws as shown here.
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This is the new rectangular washer referenced in the last step. It can be found as part of the Part 7 punch out sheet.
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Pic 2 and 3 are two different angles of the front center bracket on the clear acrylic version of the box for clear context of proper installation
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Locate the back panel (Part 1)
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Affix the top rear corner brackets prepared in Stage 1 Bracket Preparation: Step 12 as shown here. (link opens in new window)
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Affix the top rear center brackets you prepped in Stage 1 Bracket Preparation to the back panel (Part 1) as shown here. (link opens in new window)
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Connect the rear panel to the base assembly as shown here.
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Press two rivnuts downward through the finished side of the inside exit panel (Part 9)
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Lay the inside exit panel with the installed rivnuts finished side down so the rivnuts are sticking up through the unfinished side.
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Line up the top edge of the inside and outside exit panels and then press the outside exit panel (Part 10) over the protruding rivnuts. The finished side of the outside exit panel should be facing up.
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Fasten the two pieces together using two M3x16 screws. If assembled correctly only the finished sides of each panel should be exposed.
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Set this assembly aside for use in later steps.
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Grab your remaining top / bottom exit panel (Part 4). Its time to configure the top panel.
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Start by filling all the exit holes with plugs. You can remove them later to install exit fittings as needed.
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The material is very soft and can be easily reamed out using needle nose pliers, a phillips head screwdriver, or even the side of the hex key that comes with the hardware kit.
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Simply run any metal tool inside each of the holes until you can fit a rivnut in each one. NOTE: Not all holes are used but its generally easiest to just ream all of them out now so the ones that are used are properly prepared.
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Press three rivnuts into the top panel and flip the panel over as shown in the video here. The excess tip of the rivnut should be sticking up through the unfinished side of the panel.
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Orient the continuous hinge (Part G) so the hinge pin is facing down and then press it over top of the exposed rivnut tips. The fit will be tight, this is intentional so that the lid stays as square to the box as possible.
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Press the top hinge clamp (Part 5) over top the hinge with the finished side facing up as shown here
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Prepare three M3x16 screws with the styrene washers (Part 6: Punchouts)
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Fasten the hinge clamp (Part 5) with the washered screws inserted into the rivnuts protruding from the top panel as shown in the video.
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Grab two rivnuts and one M3x16 screw from the hardware bag (Parts Pack E)
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Press the rivnuts through the ends of the lid brace (Part 14) so that the excess is sticking out on the unfinished side of the brace.
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Grab your acrylic lid (Part 16) and be sure all the masking has been removed from it as indicated in the preparation stage.
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Lay the front faceplate (Part 15) on top of the acrylic lid so that the hole patterns line up and the curved corners are closest to you.
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The goal is to bend the lid so the brace acts like the string of a bow holding the lid in tension and creating a slight arc as shown in the video.
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Start by only partially fastening an M3x16mm screw to the unfastened rivnut. You will need to angle the screw and rivnut slightly to get it started. DO NOT TIGHTEN MORE THAN A FEW TURNS AT THIS POINT.
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Slowly and gently bow the faceplate/lid until you are able to press the unseated rivnut into the hole in the acrylic panel. Hold it in place with your fingers and then tighten the screw the rest of the way.
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Align the top panel with the hinge clamped on so its facing you as shown in the video.
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Press four rivnuts into the hinge holes that line up with the holes on the top edge of the lid assembly.
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Optional: After punching out the lid clamps (Part 17) you may want to color the breakaway parts using a sharpie as shown here.
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If you have ordered the optional humidity hunter kit this is a good time to remove the circular knock-outs in the faceplate and lid to later accept the hygrometer.
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To minimize the chance of damaging the faceplate or lid we recommend scoring the tabs at the four extents of the circular knock outs with a hobby knife or snip away at them lightly with flush cutters. Doing so will minimize the risk of cracks when knocking out the discs
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Place the lid and faceplate on the edge of a table and with the blunt edge of a screwdriver or small hammer repeatedly rap on the disc until it pops free of the part. You're better off striking it a few times repeatedly than overly trying to smash through... especially on the acrylic.
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Carefully bend the hinge 90 degrees so the top panel / lid assembly can stand up on its own. Make sure the rivnuts stay pressed into the acrylic of the lid as they are still unfastened.
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Place one M3x16mm screw through the end of one of the lid clamps so the button head is on the finished side of the clamp and fasten to the topmost rivnut from the outside of the lid assembly as shown here.
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Fasten the other side of the lid clamp with another M3x16mm screw.
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Repeat the process for the lid clamp at the bottom side of the hinge.
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As mentioned in the previous step, newer boxes may have a center hole in your lid and faceplate directly above the "R" Circle or where your Optional Hygrometer may go. This is normal and you fasten it using the same technique as outlined in the previous video for the lid clamps.
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Use an M3x16mm screw and place three (3) styrene washers Part 6 from the punch out sheet (Part 7) and fasten through the hinge and holes with a rivnut as outlined for the lid clamps.
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Notice the slight gap left at the ends of the top panel and hinge clamp. Carefully slide the thin RECTANGULAR washer into the gap so that it lines up with the holes for the top panel and hinge clamp.
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Fasten the top corner bracket you prepared in Stage 1 Bracket Preparation (link opens in new window) to the top panel with an M3x16mm screw as shown here.
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This is the same new washer referenced in Step 5. Only 3 are currently in use on the newest version of RepBox. You may have extra on your sheet. This is normal.
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Insert a thin RECTANGULAR washer in the end gap between the top panel and the lid clamp so that it lines up with their holes.
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Fasten the top corner bracket you prepared in Stage 1 Bracket Preparation (link opens in new window) to the top panel with an M3x16mm screw as shown here.
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Insert the latch core (Part 22) into the hole for it on the acrylic lid so that the key side is facing your work surface.
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Fasten the latch core to the acrylic lid with the latch core nut.
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With the key in the vertical position attach the metal latch bar to the latch core with the provided screw and a phillips head screwdriver. Make sure the cutout in the latch bar is facing you and aligned as shown in the video.
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Verify the operation of the latch with the key in it and then return it to the open position.
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Place two M3 Square nuts into the nut traps on either side of the 3D Printed Handle Set (Part 20) as shown. Verify that the top handle is broken free from the bottom handle by trimming any tabs left over from the 3D printing process with flush cutters or a hobby knife.
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To fasten simply place two Rivnuts on either side of the handle and press into place as shown.
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The latest version of this handle set is available for download with the rest of the printed parts.
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Rotate the latch so its in the closed position and the key is aligned horizontally along the acrylic.
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Place the handle set on top of the key so that it slides into the handle set as shown.
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Place two M3 square nuts into the nut traps on the sides of your 3D printed handle set (Part 20)
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Verify that you are EASILY able to thread an M3x16 screw into each of the square nuts once they're in the handle set. If you meet any resistance STOP and clear any holes and/or screw threads from debris and try again.
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Place the handle underneath the lid as shown and fasten it using two M3x16mm screws.
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Here's where it all starts to come together! Start by placing your left sidepanel (Part 8) with the printed side down against your work surface.
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Insert the tabs of the base/rear panel assembly into the corresponding notches in your sidepanel.
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Insert the tab of the center track guide (Part 3) into the corresponding notch of the sidepanel as shown. Its ok to gently leave it hanging away from the base for now.
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Insert the tab of the front exit panel assembly from step 9 into the corresponding notch of the side panel as shown.
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Place the left sidepanel onto the tabs of all the parts / assemblies you just placed. Go slowly, its easiest starting with the rear tabs, then make sure the center track guide is flat against the base panel and seat its tab along with the base. Lastly verify the front exit panel is seated in its notches.
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Once you've turned the box over fasten ONLY THE BOTTOM TWO brackets to the left sidepanel with two M3x16mm screws as shown.
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Place two M3 Square nuts into the tracks of the 3D printed latch plate (Part 21)
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Fasten the latch plate to the inside of the front exit panel assembly with two M3x16mm screws as shown.
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Align the front edge of the latch plate with the front edge of the inside exit panel to start. You may adjust it later to suit your latching tension preference.
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Almost there! Place the tabs of the top panel / front lid assembly into the notches in each of the side-panels as shown.
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Prepare three M3x16mm screws with the styrene washers (Part 6)
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Fasten the top panel to the top rear center brackets using the washered screws you just prepared.
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Fasten the top panel to the top rear corner brackets using two M3x16mm screws as shown.
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Turn the RepBox on its side and using two M3x16mm screws SLOWLY fasten the sidepanel to the top front and rear corner brackets. If you meet any resistance STOP and back the screw out to check for debris in the threads and/or holes, then try again.
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Flip the box over and do the same thing on the other side.
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If not already loose, loosen the corner brackets for the top front, top rear, and base front and rear brackets where they fasten to the top, rear, and base panels.
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Press the sidepanels tightly against each corner and then re-tighten the loosened screws.
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Place the tabs of the two base stringers (Part 12) into their corresponding notches on the rear panel.
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Place the stringer support bar (Part 11) over top the brackets at the front of the base carefully lining up the tabs of the base stringers with the notches in the stringer support bar. DO NOT FASTEN WITH SCREWS YET
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Place the base faceplate (Part 13) on top of the stringer support bar so the finished side is facing outward and the holes align with the stringer support bar when their bottom edges are aligned.
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Fasten the base faceplate and stringer support bar to the front three base brackets using three M3x16mm screws as shown.
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Press a M3x16mm screw through the outside of your side panel to form a fastening post.
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Slide a thin washer (Part 6) over top the screw as shown.
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Slide on the lid prop so that the curve of the prop follows the contour of the sidepanels.
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Add one more thin washer and then fasten using a rivnut with the flanged end tightened against the thin washer as shown.
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Due to slight variances from suppliers your exit fittings may look slightly different from those pictured. This is perfectly normal and they will still function the same.
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Pick where you would like to place your exit fittings based on spool size and printer positioning. Remove any plugs from the holes that you want to exit filament from.
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Remove the nylon nut from your exit fittings. IF THERE IS A RUBBER WASHER WITH YOUR EXIT FITTINGS REMOVE AND DISCARD THEM
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Place the nylon nut in the trap on the backside of the front or base exit panels and thread in the fitting from the other side of the hole.
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Congrats! You've made it through the main assembly. No small feat. Maybe enjoy a life saver or two from your Mini RepSaver box if you haven't eaten them all already ;)
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When you're ready its time to move on to Stage 3: Roller Assembly ->
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10 Comments
These videos are terrible. I have *no clue* what i’m looking at.
Ok, did you look at the parts key documents in stage 1? They label everything pretty clearly in both assembled and unassembled state. Let us know specifically where you’re getting hung up and we’re happy to help.
Step 4. The video moves too fast, I don’t know which bracket to use and I can’t tell which orientation to put it in.
Adding more details now. Notating which brackets and linking to the preparation step. For Step 4 they’re the base corner brackets you prepped in step 5 of stage 1
Unfortunately Dozuki only allows each clip to be 30 seconds long max so we had to do our best to break them up. If you click the enlarge button on the video viewer and pause as needed you should be able to see the correct orientation and I generally reference a position and point as well to help give indication